Anonymous writes "We first hiked to Ropi Lake from Horsetail Falls, the area was amazing, beautiful beyond description. Sunday morning we climbed peak 9686 from the notch between Pyramid peak and the ridge leading to Peak 9686. We climbed the laughing Pillar (4th class) before heading to Peak 9686, we descended the east ridge back to camp. It was another great weekend exploring and climbing mountains in Desolation Wilderness. The snow is melting and summer is just beginning.
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Posted by squishy on Thursday, June 24 @ 10:54:20 EDT (83 reads)
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Spring 2010
I haven’t been keeping up on publishing stories and content for a little while, my only excuse is that I have been really busy climbing and enjoying the mountains and beauty of California. I finally sat down long enough to put a bunch of pictures and video together, so I guess I should tell you an exciting story. To be honest it’s getting harder and harder to try and explain, but I will keep trying.
In this year’s long and wet winter, I managed several snow climbs between the storms and even a few trips during the storms. I attended many group outings with other clubs, making several new friends along the way. Thanks to the Decadent Outdoor Adventurers, the ROCKaholics and the super cool people from SuperTopo for places to stay in Yosemite Valley and for the good times, I hope to share many more.
During the winter, we had a period of time where the sun would come out in the middle of the week and then it would rain all weekend, it was horrible weather for a weekend warrior like myself. As consolation we took on the Coast Range of California and hiked up Glassock Mountain in the rain on January 25th, umbrellas optional. Click Read More for a bunch more.
Posted by squishy on Friday, June 11 @ 22:08:34 EDT (94 reads)
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Pickett Peak 2010
Posted by squishy on Sunday, March 07 @ 19:56:49 EST (170 reads)
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The Northwest Face of Pyramid Peak
Beginnings
I had my eye on the northwest face of Pyramid Peak for quite a while before actually going there to check it out. Although this early attention led to some temporary frustration during the journey to climbing a route on this face, in the end it made it more satisfying. Pyramid Peak captured my interest several years ago because it was the closest mountain to me that felt like a 'real' mountain (e.g. at least a couple thousand feet of windswept rock and snow, you know what I mean). My first glimpse of the mountain came when I climbed up Horsetail Falls in the snow one May weekend wearing shorts and trailrunners and didn't even own an ice-axe. The rest of the party was complaining that we should go back (especially Squishy, who at the time smoked more and was much more sedentary than he is today), but I had to press on through the snow until I finally caught a glimpse of the reclusive Pyramid Peak that the internet claimed was right there (little did I know at the time that when the air is clear enough, such as on a cold, crisp winter morning, I can actually see the Crystal Range just blocks from where I live). In the several years since my first peek at the peak, I've managed to explore most aspects of Pyramid Peak, as well as much of the high Crystal Range. Due to the convenient location, Pyramid Peak is an ideal testing ground for all sorts of techniques in various seasons. This is a story encompassing several of these ventures into the wilderness, though it seems you have to go a bit out of your way to find true desolation given the number of people in Desolation Wilderness (due mostly to the same proximity and ease of access that led me there). However, there are many obscure yet spectacular areas that see relatively little use if you take the time to find them. The area north of the peak, containing the NW face as well as the Pyramid Couloir, is one of them.
I don't recall the exact origins of the premise, but once we started learning to rock climb and accumulating climbing gear it seemed like a no-brainer to try for technical routes on the mountain. The only aspect that would accommodate this goal was the hidden face tucked into a west facing corner that is barely visible outside the basin below it and the neighboring peaks immediately to the north. Luckily, we had noticed it during a number of previous hiking and scrambling trips into the basin and climbing Mt. Agassiz, including the unnamed tarns in the basin, the higher of which is the perfect basecamp. Click read more for the rest of the route.
Posted by adam on Thursday, October 15 @ 00:27:30 EDT (357 reads)
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Yosemite from Bottom to Top 2009
In the second week of June 2009, we had a small team poised to tackle the fourteen thousand foot summit of Mt Williamson via the Long Twisting Rib route, but the weather and many other factors shut down our primary plans, secondary plans, and even plan C. We had the time off work but the constant rumble of this spring’s Sierra thunderstorms, Adam’s bum knee (from attempting to dayhike Shasta), and the long drive kept us on the west side of the Sierra. I had mentioned doing several alternative hikes and climbs, and it turned into a four day tour of Yosemite from bottom to top, from sunshine to snowstorms and even some mist thrown in for good measure. Making the best of your situation, time, and weather is an extensive mountaineering discipline in itself. I for one wouldn’t be able to take advantage of such limited time without being flexible, adaptable, and prepared.
Once again Biz was involved, a friend of ours, mountain guide, SP member, and now Yosemite resident. If I have to include his name, the word epic usually follows, and he did not fail at ensuring we pushed the limits once again. Last year Biz and I did a whirl wind tour of Conness’s North Ridge, my first alpine climb and first experience puking and dry heaving for a summit. When Biz heard we were planning and training for Williamson, it was a no brainer for him. Adam acquired the permits and we began training, long hikes with weight and traditional multi-pitch climbing to get the technically inexperienced up to speed.
Next came Adam’s bum knee, during a last minute training hike on Shasta he developed pain during the descent, rare for an apparently indestructible person such as Adam. The week before, during a tension traverse at Phantom Spires, a cam blew and he got banged up pretty bad, his first lead fall. Major raspberries down his legs, scratched up face, and even a dented helmet. Following one of Bob Burd’s scramble routes in Yosemite Valley recently, Adam was quoted as he walked into camp near 10 pm: "We almost died." They probably didn’t really, but they did bail on the intended mission (North Dome via the Ahwahnee Ledges) and ended up descending Indian Creek Canyon at night with one headlamp between him and his wife (after the second was accidentally broken). Click read more for the rest of the story, it's a good one.
Posted by squishy on Tuesday, August 04 @ 21:50:38 EDT (420 reads)
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North Ridge of Mount Conness 2008
Randomly, Summit Poster Biz, sent me an email and wanted to climb the North Ridge of Mount Conness. I must have been a little buzzed from some red wine when I sat down to reply. I was soon in the middle of changing jobs and packing for my 1st alpine climb. I had no idea what to bring so I just brought it all, climbing gear, camping gear and backpacking gear.
We left Sacramento at 9:00pm Friday September 19th, and reached Saddlebag lake campground after midnight. When we pulled into the parking lot and noticed a few people sleeping on the ground next to their vehicles and soon we did the same. Biz probably wanted to leave earlier, but we woke up with the sun. We organized a small lightweight rack for the day, consisting of a bunch of climbing gear (full set of Metolious ultra light cams, and a set of Black Diamond nuts complimented with lightweight slings and draws). I had some old green tea and set off toward the lake. We met a considerably large group near the dam, they were aiming for the normal route; it seemed it would be a crowded mountain. I didn't make it more than 10 minutes before throwing up all over the trail. Could it have been the old green tea I had for breakfast or something else? Click read more for the rest of the trip report
Posted by squishy on Thursday, October 09 @ 00:07:44 EDT (615 reads)
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Middle Palisade 2008
From Aug 6th to 11th Hiking-n-stuff embarked on an epic journey to the east side of the high Serra to climb one of California’s 14ers; Middle Palisade, at 14,012 feet, is the highest several members of the group have ever been. On Wednesday August 6th we drove over Monitor pass and down highway 395, to the famous Whoa Nellie Deli for lunch and some mango margaritas. We stopped in Bishop to pick up our permits and turned onto Glacier Lodge Road in Big Pine. The latecomers from the Bay Area contacted us via radio and we were all in camp by 10pm. We grabbed a nice car camping site next to a small creek filled with brook trout, and a camp fire and some wine rounded out a surprisingly relaxing day.
The next morning on Thursday August 7th, we packed up our gear and began the approach to our base camp near the mountain. At the end of Glacier Lodge Road we took the South Fork of the Big Pine Creek into the John Muir Wilderness toward Brainerd Lake. Leaving the trail at a shallow unnamed lake we ventured up to Finger Lake, our home for the next few days. We found a well used campsite above the lake, and the old Middle Palisade Summit register on the ground. It was dated 1934 from the Serra club, most likely bought down and replaced when its lid broke. Some left over thunder storms from the days before sprinkled on us in the evening, and the wind picked up during the night. Click read more for the rest of the trip report.
Posted by squishy on Tuesday, August 26 @ 10:22:08 EDT (705 reads)
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Pyramid Peak 2008
On Aug 1st 2008 I did my 1st solo adventure and summited Pyramid Peak (9,983 feet) via the Rocky Canyon Creek route. I took 4 liters of water a sandwich and my backpacking gear, it must have weighted about 35lb's. I had the entire summit to myself and I only ran into people lower down the trail who where coming up for day hikes as I was leaving. The Rocky Canyon route up Pyramid Peak is probably the greatest vertical climb in the Tahoe Sierra. Starting from a base elevation of 5,900', the route climbs up nearly 4,100' to the summit of Pyramid Peak in 3.3 miles. I have done this route in the summer and winter and I was confident it would offer a challenging yet safe solo adventure. In just a few days I plan to summit the Middle Palisade and I have been preparing for 14,000 feet. I've been running every other day, hiking, climbing and I figured the best way to acclimate to higher elevations is by going to higher elevations. On a whim I planned to spend the night on top of Pyramid Peak and because it was a Friday (I had to work Sunday) I would need to go solo, all my partners would be working, and I'm kind of glad. I always wanted to go solo, I guess I just never put my money where my mouth is and stepped into the unknown. It was a wonderful experience, and I'm glad I went through with it. Click read more for the rest of the trip report.
Posted by squishy on Tuesday, August 05 @ 19:59:06 EDT (576 reads)
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Crescent Moon Couloir 2008 (video)
Posted by squishy on Friday, May 16 @ 18:29:33 EDT (496 reads)
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Thunder Mountain 2007
by squishy
When I was very young I remember looking up at the Thunder Mountain while camping at Silver Lake with my family. I use to wonder what use to live up there in the caves and overhangs. It was a magical place for a child's mind and for some reason the place stuck in mine. Things always seem so large when you are so small, but this one didn't change when Lis and I revisited it on 10/7/07. It was a beautiful day, it had snowed the day before, leaving the mountains lightly dusted. Thunder Mountain is a short distance from Kirkwood ski resort, as you can see in the pictures, we found some discouraging warning signs. We parked near the Carson Spur and reached the summit on a moderate trail. The route was about 7 miles round trip with 1800 feet of elevation gain. In the snow was numerous animal tracks and we were startled by a Blue Grouse flapping into the trees. We ate lunch perched above Silver Lake amongst rock formations not unlike those of Pinnacle National Monument.
Thunder Mountain
I learned of the mountains more recent and tragic history while doing research for this hike. Paul Ruff died there while attempting a world record ski jump, I took a picture of the memorial cross found near the summit. This hike was also Lis's first "peak bag". Thunder Mountain is 9410 feet and the highest point in Amador county, and it was bigger and better than my young mind had imagined years ago.
